I don't like cars. Overwhelmed! [Archive] (2024)

coffee_brake

16th December 2012, 02:41

Hello all, this forum seems to be very well set-up. I just got a Miata.

I know next to nothing about cars. I haven't owned one in about 6 years, as I'm a year-round motorcyclist.

I know a whole lot about bikes. I can rebuild motorcycle engines and I love fixing carburetors and hydraulic brakes and clutches. I flip bikes all the time to pay for my long cross country rides every summer.

But I crashed a motorcycle last month and I hurt myself pretty bad. I can't pull a motorcycle clutch lever, nor can I operate a car's clutch pedal. So, my parents felt they simply MUST loan me the '91 Miata they just got at a good deal until I heal up. I don't live at home, nor did I ask them for any help. They just wanted to show me that they care. They seem to think the small stature and quick handling of the car will please me. They are right!

My last car was a Camry I drove from age 16 to 32. I got awful bored with it. so this Miata feels a lot more mechanical and agreeable to me.

I'm not trying to get more power out of the car. It can't touch my Suzuki Bandit 1200 and I don't need it to. I just want to make sure I keep it in very good condition until I heal from my crash, and prevent any problems for my parents, who are not computer literate. They would like me to keep the car permanently, but I feel like that's going a bit far since I'm grown and have been happy on my bikes for years. It seems selfish to keep the car for good, but I do need it for a little while.

The shocks are shot, the suspension needs love all around, and a speaker is blown that's driving me nuts. I heard something about a crankshaft pin I need to address, but the car has 179k miles on it. It has an exhaust leak and an oil pan leak but starts and runs just fine. Wow that transmissions sure SLAMS into second gear. I'm just really uncomfortable in automatics.

Quite frankly I'm overwhelmed with the amount of information here. Most of it I don't even understand. Knowing what I do about motorcycles, this is sure taking me down a notch.

Anyway, I'm looking forward to learning more and preparing myself to maintain the vehicle for as long as my recovery takes. Thanks for your patience.

gtxhawaii

16th December 2012, 07:00

Order a set of KYB GR2s off ebay. They should be just under $200 shipped and will fix your dead shocks nicely. Not performance shocks in the current mode but very nice stock equivalents with stock life expectancy (Start to age about 50k, don't really die till over twice that, from my experience)
There should be a local Miata club with knowledgeable people to help you swap the shocks. If you can't work a clutch lever, you aren't swapping front shocks by yourself.
Same with the oil leak. Get experienced help. It isn't hard, but you need two good hands. Miata pans just don't leak. It's the Cam Angle Sensor O-ring or the valve cover gasket. Viton O-ring, it's a standard size (22?) and Mazda valve cover gasket. Install to spec, Haynes has that as well as Garage here.
The transmission shouldn't slam. No idea where you get that fixed, the dealer likely doesn't know more than you do about a 20 yr old automatic. New fluid in the right amount can't hurt? You can't drain the auto completely, replace what you do get out.
The speakers are common sizes, we have an audio forum for discussion of particulars. The wiring was done wrong for the head rest speakers, (polarity is wrong?) the fix is detailed by Mr. Anderson various places? Frankly, most any personal HD and ear buds is better sounds?
Your car is a Short Nose Crank 1.6 engine. (B6) Read the material on the SNC in Garage (Link at the bottom of every page here) and don't worry unless the car starts losing power for no reason OR you observe any wobble in the accessory belt pulley. If either happens, PARK THE CAR. Continued use will further damage the crankshaft nose. Caught before extreme damage is done it fixes with a few hour repair and a day's wait before use. (Loctite Fix, again in Garage)

When you get better, you can swap in a manual gearbox (and the new pedal box for a clutch pedal) and have a much more enjoyable car. Frankly, you can safely push a car closer to the limit on questionable traction pavement than a bike, for fun in all weather?
A lot of us liked bikes. We got tired of wearing plaster and missing the rest of our lives. And we recognized the probability that some octogenarian or mouth breather (or now, cell phoner) was going to do more than put us in plaster, and we moved to cars mostly, if not all the time. And the available pool of significant others who will sit on back 100% of travel time is SMALL. Probably as few as who have bikes of their own? NOBODY carries their children on sport bikes till they are old enough to hold on. Get used to 4 wheels and maximize what fun they offer. Autocross and a Miata are meant for each other.

placer

16th December 2012, 08:41

You may or may not have a short nose crank (snc). It was redesigned during the 1991 model year. Not necessarily a problem. Many 1990 cars here with over 200k. Look at this: http://www.miata.net/garage/crankshaft.html

Hours of interesting reading on this site. Good luck on your rehab.

coffee_brake

16th December 2012, 09:57

Wow, great info. Thanks!

I'll be honest, I haven't looked under the hood at all, other than to help my Dad find the horn when he first got the car (it didn't work. He bought it from a recovering addict and it's pretty ratty).
I'm going to go find that pulley and check it but I'm going to need the Clymer's to do it (got one already). Heck I don't even remember what engine configuration this is, gonna go check it out.

Pop says it leaks a little bit of oil and I need to keep up on that. It's a convertible but the top is pretty new. I want to know if that sensor o-ring is the cause of the leak, or something else. Sure as heck can't get down under it right now, though. Can barely open the door latch with this bum hand! That needs to be lubed up, and the window motors barely move. I'd like to get the door panels off and see if I can do anything to help that before the motors burn up.

I'll be back on bikes as soon as possible. My husband and I met in the military learning to ride motorcycles, we've been riding each our own bikes together since before I knew his middle name. No kids. He drives a little truck on his crazy dangerous commute, but I haven't needed a car till now.

I bet the rough tranny is all in my head....

SleekBlackBeauty

16th December 2012, 10:18

That sensor O-ring is poorly accessible without removing the valve cover but it is on top in the back of the vc off one of the camshafts. If you remove the vc you can replace the gasket and the o-ring both very easily. It's not worth the frustration to try to replace it without doing both, and as Bill wrote above, either are the likely source of your leak.

Also, it's probably not the oil pan leaking if the leak is in front, it's likely the crankshaft seal. The CAS o-ring makes oil run down in back. These cars do not actually have an oil pan gasket.

Replacing the trans fluid is a good idea, and put in half a bottle of Lucas Slip Stop with it and there is a very good chance your AT will shift much better. There was a thread in the AT section where a member found a way to adjust the trans which I haven't tried yet. I might do that if my daughter's already iffy AT shifts worse in the future.

He's right about the KYB GR2s also. I bought some for my car with excellent street results. When I got more performance shocks for mine, I switched them over to my daughter's car which actually rides a lot better on the crappy Michigan roads we have than my car does now with the stiff suspension. :)

Don't feel bad about keeping the car. In the condidtion you describe, it's worth at best $2000 and if you fix the faults in it you deserve to keep it!

Welcome to Miata.net!

:welcome:

coffee_brake

16th December 2012, 10:37

Thank you again.

I am so, so, so ignorant. Is there an ATF dipstick? I can't find it. It took me ten minutes to find the oil dipstick.

And the chilton manual that's in the car says MX6, and nothing in it looks like this car. I think it's the wrong manual.

Please don't think I'm stupid; I just don't know what I'm looking at. The only car I ever had, never needed anything. I just changed the oil and drove it sensibly so nothing ever broke. I stand to learn a lot with this Mazda.

Without a manual, I don't know how to locate the accessory pulley.

SleekBlackBeauty

16th December 2012, 10:52

Thank you again.

I am so, so, so ignorant. Is there an ATF dipstick? I can't find it. It took me ten minutes to find the oil dipstick.

And the chilton manual that's in the car says MX6, and nothing in it looks like this car. I think it's the wrong manual.

Please don't think I'm stupid; I just don't know what I'm looking at. The only car I ever had, never needed anything. I just changed the oil and drove it sensibly so nothing ever broke. I stand to learn a lot with this Mazda.

Without a manual, I don't know how to locate the accessory pulley.

The dipstick is toward the back on the passenger side, kind of stubby. Looks to go behind the engine. These cars are MX-5s, ha! The MX-6 was the sporty coupe version of the Mazda 626! I had one once, and liked it. There is a Haynes manual, but there is also an online shop manual you can download somewhere if you look around with Google. The Miata Enthusiast's manual by Rod Grainger is excellent.

There is no ATF drain plug though. You have to remove the tray beneath and bathe in the oil that dumps out. Ask me how I know.

BGrigg

16th December 2012, 11:00

Yeah, that's the wrong manual, you want one for a MX5.

A warning about the oil dipstick. DON'T put your finger through the handle hole while re-inserting the stick. It rotates and it will break very easily. As I learned the very first time I checked the oil. Then again, if it took you ten minutes to find it, it was probably already broken off!

I've never even looked under the hood of an auto equipped Miata, so can't tell you where or if there is a dipstick. There should be! They're typically on the other side of the engine compartment, so people don't confuse them.

jmsj578

16th December 2012, 11:08

Please don't think I'm stupid; I just don't know what I'm looking at. The only car I ever had, never needed anything. I just changed the oil and drove it sensibly so nothing ever broke. I stand to learn a lot with this Mazda.

Without a manual, I don't know how to locate the accessory pulley.

Don't feel stupid. There are those who think they know what they're doing and end up here when they get in trouble. I can remember those days when I was a youngster. :O At least you admit, up front, that you don't know and are willing to learn. No question is a stupid question unless you already know the answer to it. ;)

This forum is a wealth of information. Thankfully, the Miata isn't much more complicated than your bikes. It's just a little bigger. :) Do some reading in the appropriate sections to find answers to many of your questions.

If you're like my brother who had a nasty mishap when he hit a cow, you'll be back on your bikes, in no time. However, you might find it hard to give back the Miata, after a bit. They're addictive.

Welcome aboard! :thumbs:

Dan23

16th December 2012, 11:22

Regarding cars v.s. motorcycles: I too have always been a motorcycle rider and got my Miata after a motorcycle accident that injured my passenger so she could not ride. In my case, it was the fault of a car that committed a blatant red light running against my right of way. My passenger has now healed and we both ride again, but I kept the Miata because it fills a role for us. It is heated when cold, and dry inside when it rains. But most of all, it is a LOT of fun and we can talk when we are in it.

The Miata, so far as I know, is the LIGHTEST car with decent handling you can buy, parts are relatively cheap and it is as reliable as we've come to expect from Japanese vehicles. When you're talking performance, weight is the enemy. So it is a good choice.

We basically do the very same things when we go out in the Miata as we do when we ride, going to out of the way places and strafing corners along the way. With the Miata, you still need to be careful, but there is less drama from unexpected road conditions such as the gravel that ends up on curves because mini-van driving idiots can't keep all four wheels on the pavement.

No, a car will never give you as quick acceleration as a motorcycle unless you can spend a minimum of $100k, but there is more to road touring than pure acceleration. So, my advice is to hang in there, fix one small thing at a time on the Miata and give yourself all the time you need to heal before getting back on your bike.

79rx7

16th December 2012, 11:26

Hey welcome to the site
you are right about all the info about these cars and the acronyms

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=127413
check this link
I too am coming from riding motorcycles like 39 years.
bought a 92 Miata that the wife and I are having a blast in.
this link also might help you http://www.mellens.net/mazda/
good luck

MC70

16th December 2012, 11:56

Hello all, this forum seems to be very well set-up. I just got a Miata.

I know next to nothing about cars. I haven't owned one in about 6 years, as I'm a year-round motorcyclist.... It can't touch my Suzuki Bandit 1200

I had a B12 for a good long while. Then moved to a Blackbird. Then some dual sports. I was also a year-round rider (in Omaha... snow was no problem; nor sub zero temps).

The Miata is as close as you'll ever get to motorcycling. I never thought I'd be without a bike, yet here I am. Know what? I don't miss it. I know it sounds absurd to you to hear anyone say that, and I would have thought so too, but aside from the blistering acceleration, the Miata is more fun all year 'round.

It isn't so far removed from a motorcycle engine; aside from not being air/oil cooled like your B12. Engines are engines, and this is a very straightforward, simple car that they're extremely easy to mod and customize.

I'd actually suggest you cruise on over to clubroadster.net since they're far more heavily focused on customization. That'll get you far more interested in your car.

Enjoy and congrats. Also, thank your parents; they're awesome.

Mad Swede

16th December 2012, 12:11

briarhopper

16th December 2012, 12:26

As one "Biker" to another....Sorry to hear about the bike accident, glad u survived & WELCOME to Miata drivingland.....:)

If you can work on bikes.....you'll have no issues wrenching your MX5.
Pretty bulletproof and extremely user friendly to drive and work on.

Frankly the only thing I do not like about Miata's are the stupidly high prices on "some new parts" and the delusions by "some" that these cars & their used parts are somehow worth far more than they are in reality.

So I suggest you shop around for parts, ignore all the silly prices many want and you'll make out fine in the real world of owning one. ;)

Regular gas, 5W30 oil, NGK plugs, decent rubber & yer good to go at around 30+ miles per gallon (mixed driving) if you don't thrash it all the time.

Great fun...lots of potential tweaks to be done and pretty addictive.

Enjoy.
:)

Dennis Nicholls

16th December 2012, 12:52

Miata.net has a lot more than the forum. Check the links at the very bottom of this page.

FAQ - FAQ

Garage - list of tech articles that covers most "shop manual" items

Marketplace - list of specialty junkyards, on-line dealer parts, etc.

Most "deferred maintenance" may leave you stranded but not cause other damage, e.g. a broken timing belt. The Miata engine doesn't grenade when this happens. The one exception is the cooling system on a 20-odd year old car. You have 9 (NINE) coolant hoses. If any break you may have a sudden loss-of-coolant event that warps the head. Being a woman you probably have small hands and may have less problem changing some of the hidden small hoses.

I've never even seen a Chilton's or Clymer's for the Miata. The Haynes is not bad as far as it goes. The OEM Miata workshop manuals are now sadly out of print and command silly prices on eBay.

gtxhawaii

16th December 2012, 13:27

In daylight, I see you have the year of the engine change. The Garage article shows the difference in the number of slots in the front of the accessory belt pulley for each engine. The VIN number is a guaranteed sign, IF the engine is the original, not always the case?

The exhaust leak may simply be a loose connection at the cat. Some rust fixes temporarily with the cheap products at auto stores everywhere. Pieces of a tin can and wire to hold the exhaust compound in place aren't obsolete quite yet? A good used stock exhaust might be found for free within your local Miata community. The catback is only the two cat bolts and 4 or so rubber exhaust hangers. Again, you need some help to swap the parts and to raise the car. Most Miata clubs are incredibly helpful. "Clubs" at the bottom of the page links you to the list of established Miata organizations that bothered to post up here. There are other less organized groups everywhere.
Craigslist and other car forums as well as the classifieds here hook you up with people parting out Miatas. The Spec Miata exhaust is half the price of the boutique Miata shop exhausts and sounds sporty, a bit loud for my music listening on the freeway, nothing a biker would object to. It's as quiet as stock around town when you aren't in the throttle.
A lot of us use Rosenthal for Mazda parts, they are this forum's sponsor. Tommy knows Miata parts and answers the phone early till mid-day and they are close, in VA. Fast shipping, prices you'll struggle to beat.
There Are no new Miata problems. Someone has had every one and posted up here about it. The Search function here takes some work, Google limited to this site is said to be better. Either is fine once you figure out the right key words.
I like TriFlow for things like the stiff door handle. WD40 loosens some things but isn't a good penetrant and is a crap lubricant. It IS an most excellent Water Displacer. Shoot your plug wires and ignition system when the car gets difficult in rainy weather. Old insulation! Liquid Wrench actually works. The slow electric window lifts are a Mazda specialty. The switch internals aren't relayed and the small switch contacts have to take the full motor amperage. They arc and get dirty/burnt with time. The switch comes out and apart simply. Clean the contact area to clean bright metal with fine sandpaper, slop some 'bulb grease' (Your NAPA will know what that is) around the contacts and reassemble. This takes a few minutes. Taking the door card off to lubricate the window regulator is more work, not a one hand job. Any long time Miata group will have half the members having been in their doors for just this. Honda's Shin Etsu is the bomb for lubing the rubber weather seal guide. Almost anything else you put in there will cause more grief than it fixes. NAPA Sylglide excepted.

TrueSpin

16th December 2012, 13:43

Sorry to hear about your accident... I don't really have much else to contribute, but as a fellow rider I always feel for another rider who has laid theirs down.

Caging sucks, but for the moment, it'll get you there.

Lanny Chambers

16th December 2012, 14:32

Slow windows are usually just dirt in the rubber channel at the front edge, against the triangular window. You will need rubbing alcohol, a box of Q-tips, and Shin Etsu silicone grease from your Honda dealer (about $16 and worth it). Clean the channels thoroughly with alcohol, let dry, then apply the grease so all the internal rubber is coated. That may be all you need to do.

If that's not enough, then pull the door panels and clean the metal window tracks as best you can. Most folks use white lithium grease. If any of the plastic rollers are broken, search here for the guy who makes Teflon replacements.

Welcome, and don't hesitate to wave at bikers from your miata. Most will return the wave, especially if you're top-down on a Sunday cruise in marginal conditions. Even Harley riders recognize a kinship in touring for the joy of the open air.

prb

16th December 2012, 23:43

Heal well, friend. Sorry to hear of your MC accident.

I sold my BMW K1200LT when I had too many near misses. I assumed that at some point it would not be a near miss so I sold it. Yes, I miss it but I'm not willing to risk my life to some idiot using a cell phone in a road missile.

A Miata isn't a motorcycle, but it's certainly a good second place. Top down cruising of country roads is almost the pleasure of a good two wheel run.

Anyway, to the problems. Looks like most of them have been addressed to a great extent. The only one I'd take another guess at might be the bang shifting.

The Miata automatic transmission uses a vacuum modulator to determine how much load is on the engine and thus, how hard to shift. If the hose comes off or if the diaphragm ruptures you get bang shifting. Also, if it's the modulator diaphragm ruptured, you can end up burning a lot of ATF through the intake manifold. Another possibility is that someone removed the vacuum modulator and failed to re-install or lost the actuator rod that goes between the modulator and the valve body.

I'd probably start troubleshooting this by replacing the vacuum modulator on the transmission and the rubber hoses on both ends of the steel line. It's possible that the steel line has a leak, but not very likely.

Please edit your signature to include the year of your car so we can give you better advice. Click 'My Profile' in the upper left corner of any page, then click 'Edit Signature' and put in your year and any other detail you feel is important.

Last, a visit to my Torque Specifications web page will prove useful over the time you are wrenching on your Miata. The link for that is in my signature block.

prb

17th December 2012, 00:06

Order a set of KYB GR2s off ebay. They should be just under $200 shipped and will fix your dead shocks nicely

I see that the price of these on eBay no longer runs under $200 shipped. Looks like these days it's closer to $250 shipped. See eBay auction 271024675632 for the best price I found. I have looked multiple times over the last couple of months and it seems to be the going rate has gone up.

And to coffee_brake, yes, these are nice replacements for the stock shocks.

You'll also want to consider replacement bump stops and boots to complete the upgrade. The original bump stops on these cars were hard rubber and their transition to bump stop is jarring. Newer bumps of polyurethane foam change this immediate transition to something that has a little range. I got the long ones from Fat Cat Motorsports. Also got my boots there.

There's instructions in these two threads:

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=403704

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=403755

Dennis Nicholls

17th December 2012, 00:08

Actually Amazon is a good cheap place to buy KYB these days. Just be sure to look up the part numbers you need on the KYB site as the Amazon "parts database" often sends you the wrong parts for your application.

The KYB SB108 boots/bumpstops at $12 each are a good cheap solution.

gtxhawaii

17th December 2012, 01:30

coffee_brake

17th December 2012, 07:20

Did I mention I was overwhelmed? Ha, you all have shared so much information that I am going to need days to process it all!

I guess I will have to get some ramps so I can get under the thing. It will help with Hubby's truck, too--it's my job, when I'm not a gimp, to maintain his truck and two bikes, and my three bikes.

The dipstick was already broken but at least it wasn't low on oil. Still have to find the tranny dipstick and see if it's low.

Our house is old and modern cars won't fit in the carport or garage. Not with enough room to work on them, anyway. The most damaging thing that I think I need to address, that I CAN address right now, is the dragging windows. This is not my car and I don't want to cause anything on it to fail. And yes, I enjoyed driving it very much yesterday in the rain. Still gonna get back on my bikes though. Considering the time off work with this stupid accident, expensive new parts are not going to happen for a while. I may have to stump around on the old shocks for a bit.

The information you've shared on the right products, links and procedures, even torque values, are important to me. THANK YOU very much.

Oh, and here's why you wear a helmet:

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z41/coffee_brake/CIMG2520.jpg

MC70

17th December 2012, 08:01

Windows:

There is a teflon kit for the dragging windows, but what is equally as effective is to pull the door cards (door panels) off, roll the windows down, and shoot some lube (I prefer silicone) into the rails which are clearly exposed at the top of the door.

To pull the door cards, remove the armrest with three screws, then the handle cup on the inside. After that, gently pry the cards away from the doors; I think there are four or five press-fit nylon fasteners around the lower perimeter, and two in the middle area of the door. Be gentle but firm and they'll pop free easily. Then, lift the door card off of the top of the door. Nothing is required to do this beyond a #2 phillips screwdriver.

Roll the window down and shoot some lube into the top of the rail. If you can, spray some lube in the lower portions as well with the window up.

Then put it all back together. Shouldn't take you longer than 15 minutes per side if you're taking your time. Easy stuff.

Shocks:

This is a super easy job on the Miata. The first one will take you the longest, but after that they're all quite easy.

It helps to have a friend assisting. If you are on a tight budget, it is easy to find shocks with not too many miles from an NB, and they are a direct swap.

I strongly recommend using the 'long bolt' method. In this method, you remove the undertray (6 bolts; 10mm if I recall), then pull the sway bar free (4 bolts holding saddle clamps on; extremely easy). Remove the sway bars from the control arms. Unbolt the lower shock. Unbolt the coilover towers (not the middle bolt) from the engine bay; accessed from under the hood). Now remove the long bolt from the upper control arm by unscrewing it and sliding the bolt forward to the front bumper of the car. At this point the upper control arm falls free, the assembly 'falls' down and allows you to pull the coilover completely free.

The rear driver's side one is by far the most irritating. The fuel fill and vent lines are in the way of removing the coilover assembly. You can get to them without removing the tubes, but it is a pain. If you do remove them, make sure you haven't just filled the car all the way up... And have something to stuff in there to keep the fumes down.

I have some photos I took when my son and I did this a few weeks back. I'll try to remember to post some up later.

coffee_brake

19th December 2012, 07:01

With the holidays approaching, I have precious little time to work with this car. But I've needed to drive it every day for shopping and such.
I don't have time to pull the door panels, but the right window switch must be gummed up like ya'll said, it only works sometimes.

In the meantime, the motorcycle crash damaged my wrist and I'm having trouble both turning the key in the lock, and opening the door lever without pain. Will a little dry graphite lube be OK in the lock and lever mechanism, as far as I can reach it?

RubyDoo

19th December 2012, 07:37

Welcome coffee brake! http://www.runemasterstudios.com/graemlins/images/welcome2.gif

Always nice to have another gal around (though I'm a guy), and bikers are always welcome. They think right: www.motorcycleroads.com

Best wishes on your recovery ... but odds are you are going to want to stay with Miatae for the long run. I'm invading NA briefly (your thread title drew me in) for a sales pitch on NCs. Newer car can mean less of that mechanical work you want to avoid, and if you have to avoid a third pedal for a longer time the auto in the NC with its manual function and steering wheel shifters can be a hoot. You should be able to find a mid-miles rust-free Dixie version at or under $10K. Go test drive any NC auto now, and bear in mind that $200 on antisway bars will do magic to the car which Mazda left a little soft for our tastes. You'll be trying to lean it over like NC owner and bike racing member gal sprorchid here:
http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i455/sprorchid/MF1A7984f.jpg

jmsj578

19th December 2012, 08:13

RubyDoo is jumping the gun, a little. I'm a NC fan, myself. I understand his enthusiasm. ;)

Unless the car has something really pressing to fix, you should just drive it, for now. You need that wrist to heal so that you can go back to wrenching. Since this car is a loaner, don't invest a lot of cash in it. I know it belongs to your parents; but, you should know what they plan to do with it, before you spend much money on it. If they give it to you, it'll make a nice project and addition to your bike. There are days when a bike is not appropriate.

As for the automatic, I've had the manual and the automatic. As most will tell you, the manual tranny is the better choice for fun; but, our first Miata was a '95 NA with the automatic. It was a fun car to drive. As has been mentioned, the fix should be pretty easy to do. Some advocate changing to a different fluid; but, I'd look at the suggestions you've been given other than fluids replacement. The tranny in my '95 shifted just fine on OEM fluids.

MC70

19th December 2012, 08:42

.... Will a little dry graphite lube be OK in the lock and lever mechanism, as far as I can reach it?

Graphite in the locks is all good (just make sure if you hit the ignition that you put something under the lock to collect the graphite as it'll be impossible to get it off your carpet.

For the window switches, you can shoot a little contact cleaner right on the top of them (in the spaces around the edges). It might clear up what you are after; I think it is pretty easy to get those out though I haven't done so yet.

oldE

19th December 2012, 08:51

Coffee Brake,

Welcome. I'm new here as well and as you have found out, there's a heck of a lot of information available through the search function, in the Garage section or in FAQ.

Regarding your Chilton's manual, the PO of my car passed along a Chilton's for Mazda which has a MX3 on the cover, but the book is about an inch and a half thick and covers all Mazda passenger cars '90 - '93. The PO had gone through and placed tabs on the pages which applied to the Miata. Is it possible your book is the same?

When looking for a toy, I ended up with a Miata instead of an old BMW R100 because of the current riding conditions and I too once had a helmet that ended up looking something like yours.

Here's to a speedy healing.

coffee_brake

19th December 2012, 13:10

Ok everybody, thanks.

I'll hit the switch for the windows with the contact cleaner and spray some dry graphite into the door handles and locks. At least I can do that, quickly and easily.
Little car's growing on me. It handles better than any cage I've ever driven. Doesn't pull to either side not one bit, which for its age and miles seems pretty good to me. Mind you, I haven't had a car in about 5 years. I only drive Hubby's truck a couple times a month for "big" groceries and also to keep my driving skills up.

Les the manual is certainly not for this car, I tried.

I really appreciate the help from everybody. A lot of what you're saying isn't registering yet because I haven't dug around in this machine yet. But I know I can come back and go through it and take care of some of the little things wrong, so that IF I give it back to my parents, it will be in better shape than when they loaned it out.

I've already had two offers to buy it...

Unusualdesigner

19th December 2012, 13:35

...I've already had two offers to buy it...

It's a common occurrence around here too ;)

I call my NA the "4 wheel motorcycle". I gave up 2 wheels when the close calls came a bit too close, used to ride a 1200XL HD.

Anyway, rubber side down always! :D

flylow7f39

19th December 2012, 15:16

With the holidays approaching, I have precious little time to work with this car. But I've needed to drive it every day for shopping and such.
I don't have time to pull the door panels, but the right window switch must be gummed up like ya'll said, it only works sometimes.

In the meantime, the motorcycle crash damaged my wrist and I'm having trouble both turning the key in the lock, and opening the door lever without pain. Will a little dry graphite lube be OK in the lock and lever mechanism, as far as I can reach it?

I prefer Tri-Flow over graphite...

http://www.naples-locksmith.com/articles/general-security/78-the-great-oil-debate.html

" In order to better understand what oil to use, we need to better understand the oils themselves.
WD-40: The “WD” stands for “Water Displacing.” WD-40 was developed by the military in the 50s as a rust preventative solvent and de-greaser to protect missile parts. It quickly became a household item when people discovered it had thousands of other uses as a cleaner, rust-prevention agent, squeak-stopper and more. It is perhaps the most widely distributed oil in the world and available at most hardware stores.
Tri_Flow: Tri-Flow Industrial Lubricant is a unique formula containing micron-sized particles made from P.T.F.E. (polytetrafluoroethylene) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polytetrafluoroethylene. Polytetraflouroethylene is most commonly referred to as Teflon and is the basis of Tri-flow's lubrication. Tri-Flow deposits a long-lasting film to greatly reduce friction and wear.
Powder Graphite: Graphite is a dry, fine powder used as a lubricant. The first place I ran into graphite was in the Boy Scout wood derby races. Graphite was applied to the axle and wheels of the wooden cars to help them spin better. If you have ever handled graphite, you will immediately notice that it sticks to everything and can quickly make a mess of your hands and workspace.
3-in-One Oil: 3-IN-ONE is a specially formulated lubricating, penetrating, and cleaning oil. 3-IN-ONE's unique set of ingredients enable it to lubricate as well as protect metal surfaces. Recently, WD-40 purchased 3-IN-ONE and many of the lubricating properties are similar. Though 3-IN-ONE does not tout any water displacement properties.
Silicone Lubricant: Silicone keeps its lubricating properties over a variety of temperature ranges. As the name states, the primary lubrication comes from silicone which has decent penetrating properties. Beware though of the fumes.
Liquid Graphite: Like the powdered graphite but applied as a liquid. The liquid evaporates in a few hours leaving the graphite powder behind. This makes the product a little easier to work with and apply without making such a large mess.
Houdini: From their website: “The amazing lubricant used by professional locksmiths for all key, electric and combination locking devices. Works on tough jobs under extreme conditions even in sub zero weather! Deep penetrating. Cleans as it lubricates. Lubricates. Protects. No Teflon. No Silicone. No Oil. No Graphite. Will not build-up or gum-Up. Anti-Rust. Prevents corrosion, even in salt-air environment. Dielectric, use on electric locks”"

"This is my back-up oil and is excellent for most situations. While Tri-Flow does not attack existing corrosion well, it does not dry out like WD-40 and is gentle on your lock. It also comes in a pen style applicator to allow you to insert a few drops right into the lock."

"Florida is simply too humid for graphite. It quickly begins to stick together and becomes gummy as it attracts the moisture from the air. It may be viable in a different environment, but I spend far too much time fixing locks that are gunked up with graphite to recommend for SW Florida."

"Conclusion:
All locks require lubricating, but do not start putting any oil into your lock. Some oils can actually damage your lock making it inoperable. Most oils are best if used in small quantities and it always helps if you can remove the lock from the door to give it a thorough cleaning. The humidity, salt air, and fine sand of Southwest Florida is hard on locks and I suggest oiling most locks at least twice a year. Give locks that are rarely used special attention as they can become completely seized as rust and corrosion set in. I strongly suggest using Houdini, but TriFlow is a reasonable back-up-especially if you are oiling twice a year. In the end, be sure to call a locksmith if you lock starts to act funny including:"

MC70

19th December 2012, 15:20

You can buy lock lube in lock injector form. Easy and cleaner.

Oh, and when driving the Miata, you must treat it like a motorcycle. Be wary of road surface conditions and contaminates. Gravel in a tight corner will have the same effect. The car is so light that you need to be wary of such things.

Unusualdesigner

19th December 2012, 15:40

Good write up on oils

Just need to add, don't use 3-in-1 to lube small motor sintered bronze bearings [aka "Oilite"]; tends to dry out, becomes "gummy" and clogs the bearings oil pockets.
Many years of servicing small fans and other devices where homeowners have used 3-in-1 to lube them.

As far as locks: a SMALL shot of DRY graphite followed by a short blast of "canned air" to force it into all the nooks and crannies of the lock and blast out the excess once a year works wonders for me. Getting the excess out is the key [no pun intended ;) ]

ColinD

19th December 2012, 20:02

Flylow,

Add to your list a product called Boeshield. Originally developed by Boeing for use on aircraft where a non-sticky,no build up non-corrosive lubricant\protectant was needed.
Works well on locks, electrical relays, etc. Expensive but works well and you don't use much. Use it on chrome on your boat when you put it away for the winter. Come spring, a good wipe down with a clean cloth is all you need to get things shiny and bright.

WD-40 also works well for starting diesel engines!:D

Jaeger

19th December 2012, 20:35

coffee_brake

20th December 2012, 05:35

Hahaha you folks are all about this car, aren't you?

I'll use the dry graphite I have, better products will have to wait.

Believe me I'm not pushing the car around the curves. It does handle well but this ain't my car! I'm not taking any chances on damaging it.

prb

20th December 2012, 08:17

Believe me I'm not pushing the car around the curves. It does handle well but this ain't my car! I'm not taking any chances on damaging it.

Well, you'll be happy to know that somewhat aggressive driving that would have your average soccer mom's van flying through a fence and rolling isn't even a warm up call for a Miata.

The cornering capabilities of the stock Miata are indeed very deep. Before you test that, you'd want to know that the date in the tire sidewalls isn't way in the past and you might need new shocks and an alignment for the real stock experience.

I can't tell you the number of times someone has been tailgating me into some corners only to come of of them a half mile behind me on the exit.

jmsj578

20th December 2012, 08:31

Prb is correct. The cornering performance on these cars is very good. My NA probably has well worn shocks; but, it can still outcorner my abilities. I'm old, though; so, I don't go through the twisties quite as fast as I used to. I can do pretty well, though. For sure, it's not uncommon for my stock NA to leave others well behind in the curves. SUVs and minivans get left well behind. I don't think your parents will mind your playing with it, a little. You won't hurt it.

And, yes. Most of us are all about this car. We do have some who have left us for cars like the Toyobaru twins; but, that's their loss. Hopefully, for each of those who leaves us, there will be another who will join us. Keep in mind, Miatas are addictive. When you've had more time in the Miata, you might not be willing to give it back. ;)

coffee_brake

20th December 2012, 08:38

I can't tell you the number of times someone has been tailgating me into some corners only to come of of them a half mile behind me on the exit.

And I remember several fun, highly spirited rides on my bikes either chasing a Miata, or having one chase me. One in particular was memorable in that the driver ran the daylights out of that car on Hwy 28 up near Deal's Gap, skillfully and always staying in her (yes, HER) lane, with my sport-touring bike right behind. I could see her laughing, and I was laughing too. I was genuinely surprised at how that car was moving that tight that fast, because I was keeling that bike over pretty good as well.
When she finally pulled over to let me pass, we waved at each other and I could see her delight when she saw the ponytail hanging out of my helmet.

I don't often encounter skilled yet polite drivers. Usually one or the other, rarely both. It makes an impression.

prb

20th December 2012, 08:39

I've had exactly one motorcycle pass me on the curves in my car. It was a hayabusa. And he was flogging it.

I met him at a local filling station a couple of weeks later and we chatted. He was impressed with what it took to get past me. He had no idea that a Miata could do that.

coffee_brake

20th December 2012, 08:56

I passed a Hayabusa in the curves once...but he had a passenger. He wouldn't even speak to me at the gas station in Suches, GA!

OK back to Miatas. I'm getting way to used to this car....

jmsj578

20th December 2012, 09:25

And I remember several fun, highly spirited rides on my bikes either chasing a Miata, or having one chase me. One in particular was memorable in that the driver ran the daylights out of that car on Hwy 28 up near Deal's Gap, skillfully and always staying in her (yes, HER) lane, with my sport-touring bike right behind. I could see her laughing, and I was laughing too. I was genuinely surprised at how that car was moving that tight that fast, because I was keeling that bike over pretty good as well.
When she finally pulled over to let me pass, we waved at each other and I could see her delight when she saw the ponytail hanging out of my helmet.

I don't often encounter skilled yet polite drivers. Usually one or the other, rarely both. It makes an impression.

Good story. Recently, I was driving my '90 LS6 NA home from a show. A young fella pulled in behind me in his 'Vette. We were going through some twisties that lead to the KY River. A slow minivan was holding us back. As soon as we got to the bottom, we passed the minivan and had one heck of a ride up the other side of the valley. He had trouble keeping up with this old guy in his little Miata. When we topped the other side, he motioned for me to pull over. He wanted to look under the hood! He was almost young enough to be my grandson, which I'm sure didn't help his pride, any. We had a great chat, though. Two nice cars and a little fun had by both.

Last year, I got behind a Harley driver on another twisty road in the area. I was driving my stock NA and wasn't in a big hurry, thank goodness. He was crawling through the curves. I have enough respect for bike riders that I stay back, pretty well. Some bike riders are like following yo-yos because they don't maintain a constant speed. Anyway, at one curve he crams on the brakes and stops in the middle of the curve. Even with my distance behind him, I almost nailed him. I thought he had something wrong with the bike; but, he started back up and pulled off, a short distance down the road. Then, he proceeded to try to tailgate me! I had pissed the jerk off! Well, that didn't set well with me because I had shown respect for him by staying back from him. I picked up the pace and left him behind. He finally caught me at a light in town. He pulled up beside me and shouted that I was a crazy old man! He was really pissed! I'm not crazy; but, I do know how to drive better than he knows how to ride his bike. I told him he should be ashamed for letting an old man like me outdo him in the curves. As I laughed at his stupidity, I told him he needed riding lessons and anger management classes.

Around here, Harley riders have a bad reputation of hogging the road and not pulling over for other traffic. If the Harley rider had just waited, I'd have passed him in the first passing zone we came to. For sure, he needs to get the chip off his shoulder. I can't help it that he can't ride his Harley well. :D

bluegrassmz

20th December 2012, 10:31

coffee_brake

21st December 2012, 13:08

Well THAT didn't work out like I planned. The dry graphite helped the door locks but some of it leaked down the side of the car, staining just like paint.
Nice black streaks down my dad's white Miata!

Luckily I tried a bit of polishing compound and it started coming off, but now I have to hook up the orbital buffer thing and buff it out of the door before they visit Christmas day!

ninedk

21st December 2012, 14:15

Bill Strohm

21st December 2012, 14:55

Les the manual is certainly not for this car, I tried.

coffee_brake,

Try here for a manual. (http://www.mellens.net/mazda/index.html)

MC70

21st December 2012, 16:08

Well THAT didn't work out like I planned. The dry graphite helped the door locks but some of it leaked down the side of the car, staining just like paint.
Nice black streaks down my dad's white Miata!

Luckily I tried a bit of polishing compound and it started coming off, but now I have to hook up the orbital buffer thing and buff it out of the door before they visit Christmas day!

Get some Mother's polish or (what I prefer) Eagle1 Metal Polish and it'll come right off. No worries.

Unusualdesigner

21st December 2012, 17:08

Nice black streaks down my dad's white Miata!

Did you use the powder or liquid?

I use the powder graphite and blow a little bit into the lock followed by a very short blast of "canned air", then insert and remove key about 10 times before attempting to twist. That distributes the graphite pretty evenly throughout the lock.

That said, most of the resistance felt while turning the door locks is not the lock mechanism itself but the rest of the latch assembly. For that it is easier and longer lasting to remove panel and do from inside.

Maddevill

21st December 2012, 18:03

coffee_brake

22nd December 2012, 09:46

Not all of us have given up bikes. My wife rides with me everywhere and we will continue to do so until, for whatever reason, we can't. But, a car is nice for some occasions I admit...

I haven't owned a car in 5 years. All weather, all the time, always get there on a bike. But I am inclined to agree with you more and more. It's going to be tough to give this thing up.

coffee_brake

22nd December 2012, 09:48

Did you use the powder or liquid?

I use the powder graphite and blow a little bit into the lock followed by a very short blast of "canned air", then insert and remove key about 10 times before attempting to twist. That distributes the graphite pretty evenly throughout the lock.

That said, most of the resistance felt while turning the door locks is not the lock mechanism itself but the rest of the latch assembly. For that it is easier and longer lasting to remove panel and do from inside.

I used a can of dry graphite. Has a rattle ball in it. Comes out like a liquid I guess, cuz it sure dribbled on down the paint! Not much of a budget to go buying polishing products right now, the Turtlewax rubbing compound and polishing compound that I use on my motorcycle paint jobs is just going to have to do.

garner49

22nd December 2012, 11:25

Welcome. There is a local Miata Club here in Augusta. We are more about socializing than tracking/moding; but there are several that do just that. Some have great shops and we do a tech-day in the spring. Most in the club will be willing to offer help with your problems. Sounds like you have the typical older car issues, all have a reasonable fix. If you keep the car, i.e., dad doesn’t want it back – we can help.

Go to: http://mastersmiataclub.com/ for more info about the local club. We have about dozen members (at one time 65) and we meet about twice a month to eat out and drive.
I’ve found the Miata to be the most fun-per-dollar car I’ve ever owned. Have driven it to Key West, The Blue Ridge from end-to-end and most recently up the east coast across Maryland, PA, NY, to Niagara Falls and back (2400 miles). The original 124k mile radiator was kind enough to wait until we got back to crack.

Merry Christmas.

peterpanic

22nd December 2012, 13:19

coffee_brake

24th December 2012, 23:22

Welcome. There is a local Miata Club here in Augusta. We are more about socializing than tracking/moding; but there are several that do just that. Some have great shops and we do a tech-day in the spring. Most in the club will be willing to offer help with your problems. Sounds like you have the typical older car issues, all have a reasonable fix. If you keep the car, i.e., dad doesn’t want it back – we can help.

Go to: http://mastersmiataclub.com/ for more info about the local club. We have about dozen members (at one time 65) and we meet about twice a month to eat out and drive.
I’ve found the Miata to be the most fun-per-dollar car I’ve ever owned. Have driven it to Key West, The Blue Ridge from end-to-end and most recently up the east coast across Maryland, PA, NY, to Niagara Falls and back (2400 miles). The original 124k mile radiator was kind enough to wait until we got back to crack.

Merry Christmas.

Hey thanks! I emailed the Master's club about a week ago and never heard back from them. I reckon whoever is supposed to check the club's emails is busy or out of town or something. I was interested in attending a meeting....

coffee_brake

24th December 2012, 23:28

Hi and welcome. I sympathize with your pain. Limped for months after a low side on my BMW R 60/6. Eventual weight training helped my ankle. Still have a loose knee! Broke a collar bone years later, but no pain and full use right after surgery. Take your time and heal. Do the work you can. Explore and enjoy these little gems of automotive engineering.

Why do I not know one single person who ever rode a /6, that DIDN'T crash it, hard? :D

I wish I had an old air head...modern BMWs leave me cold but those older ones are just cool as heck.

I'm ready to go back to the gym now. I've got about 70% of my wrist range of motion back, and I can flex my knees all the way without hollering on the way back up. I think I can get on the treadmill at least, and start doing some really selective upper and lower body weight training.
I was doing regular workouts before the crash, so I reckon that's been a help in recovering. I'm anxious to get back to it---that and fixing my bike, and cleaning up this Miata so it's even nicer than when I got it.

prb

25th December 2012, 12:35

I wish I had an old air head...modern BMWs leave me cold but those older ones are just cool as heck.

I always find it strange that Honda made their first real fame with the inline 4 cylinder Honda 750 about the same time BMW had the air cooled horizontally opposed engines.

Now, move forward and it's the Honda Gold Wing with a horizontally opposed engine and the BMW with their inline 4's. At least none of them are air cooled now.

garner49

25th December 2012, 14:46

Hey thanks! I emailed the Master's club about a week ago and never heard back from them. I reckon whoever is supposed to check the club's emails is busy or out of town or something. I was interested in attending a meeting....

Not sure who these go to - I just asked our web-person. We don't have anything posted for the year, as we haven't made plans yet. Our normal meet day is the first Thursday of the month as an eat out - then the third Saturday for b'fast and a drive. Check the site often for updates. I'll make sure to pm you when it's up. We usually post the whole year after it's scheduled. Check the 'Southeast' section on this site for other in the area. We went to Miata's at Myrtle Beach last year, enjoyed that.

I haven't cranked the car in almost four-weeks now. Was in Vegas for the Air Show convention, home sick with 101 fever and now rain (though we need it); maybe by years end we'll get it out of the garage.

What part of town are you in?

Patricia68

25th December 2012, 17:46

coffee_brake

25th December 2012, 20:32

Garner, I certainly would appreciate any updates as you find them out.

Patricia, I think I went through your neck of the woods this summer on a long ride to Eureka Springs. And if it wasn't an automatic, I'd already be head over heels in love with this car.

coffee_brake

26th December 2012, 10:32

MC70

26th December 2012, 10:36

Garbageman

26th December 2012, 17:53

Welcome to the Miata world. I haven't done the motorcycle thing at least on the road but I have crashed my road bike at 35 MPH. Bike shorts don't help much with road rash.
Water in the floor is coming from the roof drains. With the top down you can access them by the B pillers. Also from the bottom of the car the drain right under the rocker panels at the back corner of the doors. I use a wire coat hanger an carefully snake them out.

Once you wrist is up to it try to bring it up to the Dragon and run the twisties. The challenge is to see if you maintain the 35 MPH through most of the turns. Probably not. But its fun to try.

coffee_brake

26th December 2012, 23:13

Welcome to the Miata world. I haven't done the motorcycle thing at least on the road but I have crashed my road bike at 35 MPH. Bike shorts don't help much with road rash.
Water in the floor is coming from the roof drains. With the top down you can access them by the B pillers. Also from the bottom of the car the drain right under the rocker panels at the back corner of the doors. I use a wire coat hanger an carefully snake them out.

Once you wrist is up to it try to bring it up to the Dragon and run the twisties. The challenge is to see if you maintain the 35 MPH through most of the turns. Probably not. But its fun to try.

B pillars? Rocker panels? Sorry, what? My Pop visited yesterday for the Holiday and I mentioned the noisy AC belt. He told me I should already know that it needs tightening, but I really didn't. Honestly, I've never maintained (other than oil changes) a 4-wheel vehicle in my life. so...you tighten a squealing AC belt?

Here's one of my recent trips to the Dragon. The challenge for me is to not get a ticket at 55 in a 35!

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z41/coffee_brake/killboy.jpg

no rotors

27th December 2012, 12:10

coffee_brake

27th December 2012, 12:24

B pillar is the door jamb at the rear of the door. The A pillar is the front door jamb.
Rocker panel (more properly known as the "sill") is the area beneath the doors, running from front wheel to rear wheel.
And yes, tightening a squealing belt may stop the noise. If the belt is old and "glazed" (the sides are very shiny) then the belt may need to be replaced.

ok, thank you VERY MUCH. Wow I'm ignorant about cars...

MC70

27th December 2012, 13:25

NoRotors, no, the rocker panel is exterior below the doors. The sills are inside the doors and what you step over on the way in and out of the car. The panels that protect these are called 'sill panels' or 'sill protectors' ;)

I agree with you about replacement of a squealing belt; once they squeal, they're likely glazed, and the only way to really deal with that is replacing them. You do need to make sure they're tight though so everything else is functioning correctly.

MC70

27th December 2012, 13:29

CB, I am not sure why you seem so stressed out about a car. It is generally tougher to work on a bike. While everything on a bike is visible, it isn't always more accessible. If it makes you feel better, think about a car as two bikes. They have windshields, seating, shifting, wheels, suspension, and steering. They have the same internal combustion engine with an attached intake, exhaust, and fuel delivery system.

If you can work on a bike, you can work on a car; there really isn't any practical difference except for size. If you're smart enough to work on a bike, you can learn the parts of a car in a good day of studying. Seriously. There are tons of resources available and lots of Youtube videos. It should be anything but daunting.

coffee_brake

27th December 2012, 16:45

Well here's the rub: I have a bike in my garage right now. Bought it for a song, because the owner didn't have the know-how to fix what was wrong, which was carburetion issues. I just rebuilt those carbs today, they're ready to go back on the bike and I have a good idea that it will run now.

As for the car, well, I've never even seen the inside of a fuel injector, never tightened a belt (most bikes don't have belts, except Harley final drive belts and Goldwing timing belts), and the car won't fit in my garage even if there wasn't a bike in there.

So a car sits in the driveway if it needs work and I still can't get down on the ground to do anything with it, my knees are still pretty jacked up and I've lost a lot of arm strength in the 5 weeks since my crash.

I'm not stressed about understanding how to work on the Miata; after all it's one of the simplest modern cars out there, right? I just need to learn the terms and new techniques specific to an automobile.

But I'm stressed about my physical inability to work on what few small things are wrong with the car, I'm stressed that it's so far away from my tools and garage, I'm stressed that it's not actually my car and I don't have a pile of cash to put into it for the suspension and new parts it needs.

My folks are still fine with me keeping it, but they request I don't sell it. I don't want to sell it, but I sure would be interested in trading it for a standard. I hate automatics.

BS_GAC_Man

27th December 2012, 17:50

...A lot of us liked bikes. We got tired of wearing plaster and missing the rest of our lives. And we recognized the probability that some octogenarian or mouth breather (or now, cell phoner) was going to do more than put us in plaster, and we moved to cars mostly, if not all the time...

gtx nailed it as usual, the very reason I got rid of this.

http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb343/BS_GAC_Man/2011-07-01085302.jpg

coffee_brake

27th December 2012, 18:35

I had a 2003 Dyna, same year as that Sportster.

Not getting rid of my bikes, period.

danny2747

27th December 2012, 18:49

Welcome!
I high sided and low sided in my early bike riding days. One time I side-swiped a consul car and looked up at the barrel of some pistol: in their country, assassinations by motorcycle riders are common. That being said, my 1990 Hawk GT is alive and well as is my NA (first gen MX-5) Miata.

Working on the Miata is no harder than wrenching on the Hawk or any other bike, sans the t-handle sockets which do not see much use here.

While driving my Miata is safer than riding the NT650, I apply the same concepts: assume you are not seen, you are small, you are vulnerable, you have a handling advantage sans the power.

My Single Speed bicycle is much worse than my Hawk safety-wise. Cagers just do not care, and the cell-phone holders are the worst bunch. I hope I never come across one that hurts someone else!

The Miata, with support from this forum, a few books from Keith Tanner from Flying Miata and a few tools from your local store is easy and fun to maintain. It is a fun car to work on and it will reward you with many smile filled drives/rides.

danny2747

27th December 2012, 18:51

coffee_brake

27th December 2012, 19:09

BS_GAC_Man

27th December 2012, 19:28

MC70

27th December 2012, 19:47

Well here's the rub: I have a bike in my garage right now. Bought it for a song, because the owner didn't have the know-how to fix what was wrong, which was carburetion issues. I just rebuilt those carbs today, they're ready to go back on the bike and I have a good idea that it will run now.

As for the car, well, I've never even seen the inside of a fuel injector, never tightened a belt (most bikes don't have belts, except Harley final drive belts and Goldwing timing belts), and the car won't fit in my garage even if there wasn't a bike in there.

So a car sits in the driveway if it needs work and I still can't get down on the ground to do anything with it, my knees are still pretty jacked up and I've lost a lot of arm strength in the 5 weeks since my crash.

I'm not stressed about understanding how to work on the Miata; after all it's one of the simplest modern cars out there, right? I just need to learn the terms and new techniques specific to an automobile.

But I'm stressed about my physical inability to work on what few small things are wrong with the car, I'm stressed that it's so far away from my tools and garage, I'm stressed that it's not actually my car and I don't have a pile of cash to put into it for the suspension and new parts it needs.

My folks are still fine with me keeping it, but they request I don't sell it. I don't want to sell it, but I sure would be interested in trading it for a standard. I hate automatics.

No one sees the inside of a fuel injector. I guess you could take one apart, but it isn't likely it'd go back together. You just replace 'em. And few bikes use carbs anymore; my Blackbird didn't, and I wouldn't go back to a carb'd bike (except for a DS or MX bike). You're right about belts (there's actually two on a HD) but there are commonly chains on bikes, and they're usually more difficult to deal with than belts; belts literally have tensioners that would take you about 2 seconds to figure out if you gave them a looking at.

I understand your issues with tools and places to work on the car. Is there a local garage nearby that you can gain access to? There's usually some community garage. Also, the high school auto shop class will be happy to work on your car for a pittance (in my day we did it for $25 which went back into the school's shop program). The teachers are ASE certified mechanics (at least they used to be) and the students actually want to work on cars and do a good job. I'd take them up on it because it's a win for everyone, and it'd be tough for them to screw up your car.

Unusualdesigner

27th December 2012, 21:51

A lot of us liked bikes. We got tired of wearing plaster and missing the rest of our lives. And we recognized the probability that some octogenarian or mouth breather (or now, cell phoner) was going to do more than put us in plaster,

I rode for over 20 years, DD in all kinds of weather and had a few close calls. After breaking an ankle laying the bike down to keep from being run over by some cager that aimed for me in an alley I traded the '90 XLS1200 for a '90 Miata and never looked back.

So, last Friday my stepson is heading home and some old geezer starts to make a left turn in front of him then stops in the middle of the intersection.

He ran his Vulcan 1500 right into the guy's car at about 30 mph.

He got out of the hospital today with several broken ribs, a cracked vertebra, a separated shoulder and many bruises.

The bike appears to be fixable; forks, front wheel, front axle, etc, etc. but he's says that his riding days are over.

At 6' 6" and 270 Lb he thinks that he's a bit "big" for a Miata... ;)

bluegumball

27th December 2012, 21:57

Unusualdesigner

27th December 2012, 22:05

Now, you young sprites should be careful when making broad statements about us old geezers and octagenarians; if we don't manage to wipe you out on the road, you'll be one of us some day.

HA HA!... so you resemble that remark? :D
I think that I qualify to make old-fartdom remarks.... I've called one more times than I care to remember. ;)

ColinD

27th December 2012, 23:43

no rotors

27th December 2012, 23:46

NoRotors, no, the rocker panel is exterior below the doors. The sills are inside the doors and what you step over on the way in and out of the car. The panels that protect these are called 'sill panels' or 'sill protectors' ;)

MC70,
Scroll down to "rocker" and to "sill.' :thumbs:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_automotive_design

MC70

28th December 2012, 01:44

MC70,
Scroll down to "rocker" and to "sill.' :thumbs:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_automotive_design

it's wrong.

jmsj578

28th December 2012, 07:17

coffee_brake

28th December 2012, 14:22

MC70,
Scroll down to "rocker" and to "sill.' :thumbs:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_automotive_design

A-Ha! cool....

Motorcycles ain't my midlife crisis, I've been riding since my 20's and I'm working on being that goofy old lady with a sidecar some day. I ride sport and touring machines, no cruisers. I like performance and good handling, just like you folks do with your Miatas!

Like all the other riders or ex-riders here, I've heard over and over all the horror stories and lived through a few of them myself. I continue to accept that risk. My crash was my fault completely and I learned a lot. Now I'm struggling to fix the bike while keeping the Miata in decent condition.

First order of business: fix that window switch so I can get some air in there to dry out the floorboards where it leaked. Then, figure out what you folks meant about cleaning the drains. I still don't know where they are.

Hey do any of you live in an urban setting and use a car cover? Does it stay on pretty good in the weather? Does it invite vandals? My neighborhood isn't exactly "rough" but it isn't "nice" either, and there is a lot of traffic and the car is parked on the street.
I cannot justify owning a 20-year-old convertible roadster without some kind of cover or roof.
Ideas?

MC70

28th December 2012, 14:28

I got my son a co*ckpit cover; it covers the windshield and convertible top. Nice to keep frost and grime off your car. It fastens pretty nicely too and won't blow off.

I couldn't begin to guess at whether or not it'd invite or deter crime. It may protect the top from vandals who might otherwise slice it though; they may just not realize it's a convertible top.

This one: Linky (http://ecommerce.mossmotors.com/p/miata-mx-5/miata-garage---car-care/car-covers/cab-covers/236-360-m)

http://images.sysiq.com/moss/236/236-360-m_1.jpg.fpx?cell=600,600&cvt=jpg

bluegumball

28th December 2012, 14:34

vbdenny

28th December 2012, 14:38

The problem with car covers is that unless you sucure it underneath, they blow off. I also use magnets from old antennas and speakers on the side. Of course when parked on a street they magnets would last only a couple of hours. Never had a car cover on my Miata because it stays in the garage most of the time since I can leave the top down. I do have a car cover from my Lexus that works great and stays on.

Parking on a street is always the least desirable option. Perhaps you could rent a garage somewhere nearby? To me, that would be money well spent.

no rotors

28th December 2012, 15:47

79rx7

28th December 2012, 16:20

coffee_brake

28th December 2012, 16:37

This one: Linky (http://ecommerce.mossmotors.com/p/miata-mx-5/miata-garage---car-care/car-covers/cab-covers/236-360-m)

http://images.sysiq.com/moss/236/236-360-m_1.jpg.fpx?cell=600,600&cvt=jpg

I like that, if it's waterproof it would do what I need very well.

coffee_brake

28th December 2012, 17:32

Here's some more ignorance to mow down:

I looked under the hood and I imagine the crank pulley is the one most in the center of the engine. If this is true, mine has more than four slots and must be a long-nose.
As for the VIN, do I just read back six digits, meaning this Miata is 238291, and just barely into the long-nose numbers, which start at 209447?

prb

28th December 2012, 17:44

Here's some more ignorance to mow down:

I looked under the hood and I imagine the crank pulley is the one most in the center of the engine. If this is true, mine has more than four slots and must be a long-nose.
As for the VIN, do I just read back six digits, meaning this Miata is 238291, and just barely into the long-nose numbers, which start at 209447?

Yup, you're good. No worries about SNC.

coffee_brake

28th December 2012, 18:01

MC70

28th December 2012, 18:13

:rofl: :rofl: :wave:

I'm really not so arrogant to think I'm right just because I believe *I* am somehow important. The rocker panel was formed on a rocker in early production automobiles, and the secondary term was kept as it tended to collect 'rocks' off of the tires (which led to commonly being coated with some impact absorbing materials).

The sill is named because it is exactly the same function as a home's door sill or a window sill. It, quite literally, is a 'sill', hence the name ;)

I'll save you from another commonly mis-applied term (especially in Miata-land): Tonneau. A tonneau cover will cover the entire co*ckpit, and usually snaps on the dashboard and hooks around the rear lip of the top molding. The term tonneau cover is frequently mis-applied to the boot which is a much smaller cover that snaps down just behind the seats and covers just the soft top when folded down.

:thumbs:

MC70

28th December 2012, 18:14

Here's some more ignorance to mow down:

I looked under the hood and I imagine the crank pulley is the one most in the center of the engine. If this is true, mine has more than four slots and must be a long-nose.
As for the VIN, do I just read back six digits, meaning this Miata is 238291, and just barely into the long-nose numbers, which start at 209447?

You're good. The crank pulley is the lowest one you can see here:

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2089/4421/5222210027_large.jpg

no rotors

28th December 2012, 19:12

I'm really not so arrogant to think I'm right just because I believe *I* am somehow important. The rocker panel was formed on a rocker in early production automobiles, and the secondary term was kept as it tended to collect 'rocks' off of the tires (which led to commonly being coated with some impact absorbing materials).

The sill is named because it is exactly the same function as a home's door sill or a window sill. It, quite literally, is a 'sill', hence the name ;)

I'll save you from another commonly mis-applied term (especially in Miata-land): Tonneau. A tonneau cover will cover the entire co*ckpit, and usually snaps on the dashboard and hooks around the rear lip of the top molding. The term tonneau cover is frequently mis-applied to the boot which is a much smaller cover that snaps down just behind the seats and covers just the soft top when folded down.

:thumbs:

I guess the engineers who wrote the sill patent in the link below, and the U.S. Patent office too, are embarrassingly uninformed about what an automotive sill is, and what it isn't. :eek:

http://www.freepatentsonline.com/4911495.html

Appreciate the tip, but as a 19-year MG Midget owner, I am well aware of what a "tonneau" is. :thumbs:

That's all for me on this thread. It's gotten too sill-y :D :wave:

MC70

28th December 2012, 20:50

No rotors, who was talking to you? And go look up sill protectors online and see what you come up with. Those are sills. If you let your entire education reside in wiki links, you get what you deserve. As a long time (multi-decade) part owner of a 1964 Sunbeam, a '58 Bugeye Sprite, a slew of pre '70s VWs, and a host of other machines, I have a pretty good grasp here too.

A sill sits at the bottom of an opening, typically a door or window. These are doors. Those are sills.

coffee_brake

28th December 2012, 21:09

Play nice, kids.

So where's the drain holes I need to clean out? Can't let the carpet get all moldy....

Unusualdesigner

28th December 2012, 21:31

bluegumball

28th December 2012, 21:35

Dennis Nicholls

28th December 2012, 21:36

There are several drain holes in a Miata.

- Rocker panel drain holes at the jacking points
- A/C drain tube coming out near the right front tire
- Soft top train tubes behind both seats

The soft top drain holes/tubes are hidden under the carpet behind the seat belt towers...

It's easier to find them below. There are about 1/2" black plastic tubes right in front of the rear wheels. I clean them from below with a piece of coax cable - strip the outer jacket and fluff up the braided metal shield. Once you poke from below you will see where the top of the drains are located.

coffee_brake

29th December 2012, 04:00

There are several drain holes in a Miata.

- Rocker panel drain holes at the jacking points
- A/C drain tube coming out near the right front tire
- Soft top train tubes behind both seats

The soft top drain holes/tubes are hidden under the carpet behind the seat belt towers...

It's easier to find them below. There are about 1/2" black plastic tubes right in front of the rear wheels. I clean them from below with a piece of coax cable - strip the outer jacket and fluff up the braided metal shield. Once you poke from below you will see where the top of the drains are located.

I am trying to imagine but I do not understand what to look for. All they all rubber tubes?

MC70

29th December 2012, 11:01

I just flushed my son's a couple of days ago, and had no idea where they were.

Put the top up, and if you have a window that zips up, leave it unzipped. Reach in behind the seat belt tower and run your hand down to the bottom of the tower where it meets the parcel shelf (the flat area just behind the seats that the top folds down onto). Sneak your fingers under the carpet. What your fingers are sitting on a little plastic tray. As you move your fingers aft, you'll feel the surface dip away from you; that's your drain hole. Move your fingers further back and you'll feel the edges of the tray, and as you move your fingers forward again, you'll feel how it acts like a funnel.

I've explained all of this so that you can dump some water into the trays (there's one on each side). Unless they're totally clogged (which is unlikely) you should be able to see water trickle out of the drains under the car, and that'll help you locate all those areas.

From the bottom, the drain outlets are on the interior side of the pinch weld at the rocker panels, so you can't see them from the side; you have to actually be up under the car to see them.

Come to think of it, my car is on jackstands right now; I may be able to get some good photos before my control links arrive.

Bill Strohm

29th December 2012, 13:59

Sill drain locations (http://www.miata.net/garage/tsb/s034_94.html)

Rain rail drain hole (http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w245/worldclassjerk/drain2.jpg)

coffee_brake

29th December 2012, 15:00

Yes! Thank you! I understand the description and the links are exactly what I needed to see too.

A buddy just dropped off some ramps for me to borrow, and a creeper. He also pointed to the drains under where the water has pooled up in the passenger side floorboards. He said the plastic plugs are still in there. I'm gonna take them out and get this car dried out.

Thanks a LOT, I know it takes time to put so much information into a post, and I appreciate it.

coffee_brake

29th December 2012, 16:38

MC70

29th December 2012, 16:42

Do you have a multimeter? If not, this would be an outstanding excuse to get one (they're super cheap, and a very basic function digital one will do). You can test whether or not the switches are actually working (you can also test that at the door panel to make sure the wiring is also good from the switch to the motor).

In the mean time, if you can't get them out, you can still give the switches a good spray with contract cleaner.

You can also 'spoof' the switch by using some INSULATED wire and jumper across the switch which should activate the window. ;)

coffee_brake

29th December 2012, 18:21

MC70

29th December 2012, 18:26

coffee_brake

29th December 2012, 19:12

MC70

29th December 2012, 20:58

rwyatt365

29th December 2012, 23:43

Hey coffee_break! Guess I'm late to the party - I saw the initial post just before Christmas and intended to welcome you then, but...well the holiday got in the way. So - belated welcome.

Seems like you're getting "Miata-ized" pretty thoroughly. Before too long you'll be spouting Miata acronyms like an old pro! These cars are little gems and more fun than should be legal (they ARE legal, aren't they?!).

I'm in Atlanta (a transplant from the Frozen North) and I've had my '99 since it was brand-spankin' new. 13 years and 280K miles later and I've got the bug...BAD. I've also been riding since the the mid '70s - I recently sold my latest bike (a Suzuki TL1000S) to lighten the load for the move.

Hopefully your recovery will be swift and complete and you'll get to enjoy your bike again as well as your new "guilty pleasure".

coffee_brake

30th December 2012, 16:13

Hi Rwyatt, thanks!

Well the windows are working now but we'll see what happens next time it rains.

I fixed the stereo speakers, they were wired in by twisting the wires together and taping them. And the speakers were just sitting in the door, not mounted up at all. No mounting hardware, I zip-tied 'em in there and they seem OK now. They're aftermarket but not high quality of anything.

And...I figured out how to get the top down and rode all over town feeling like some kind of oddball. It WAS kinda cold. Filled it up with gasoline for the first time, miserable 22 mpg. At least I can hear the dang radio now.

Gene-M

30th December 2012, 16:26

It would probably destroy the switch to actually try to take it apart anyway.

Not so. They are actually user serviceable.:) However be warned that the little brass rockers (forget how many) can come flying out when you open the switch, so be sure to use your dining room table or some safe place to work where parts can be found. Don't be like me, doing outside on a driveway completely covered with bright colored (brass colored) autumn leaves.:p (I did find them all even though my magnet was useless in this case :D)

I believe the thread I wrote on these is in the archives. If I have some time to search for it later, I will.

I found that the contact points on these brass rockers all had beads of solder on them So I decided that since these beads looked worn and burned in places, I would add a fresh bead of 60/40 solder to each spot.

Well the long and the short of it was that I fixed one for a friend that was not working at all- didn't even work after the initial thorough cleaning. After I fixed it, I tested it in my own car and my widows went up a second faster from 4 to 3 seconds. He put it back in his car, and 5 years later, his windows were still working perfectly and at a good speed.

MC70

30th December 2012, 20:17

coffee_brake

30th December 2012, 22:58

coffee_brake

1st January 2013, 05:00

Unusualdesigner

1st January 2013, 14:16

Ooooh...the first long trip in the Miata for me. Only 100 miles each way but very nice...and very loud.

On long trips I use foam ear plugs; cuts down most of the 'harsh' noise but I still can hear the stereo and traffic around me.

Dennis Nicholls

1st January 2013, 20:38

There's a lot of info on fixing up the power windows here:

http://www.miata.net/garage/garageinterior.html

coffee_brake

2nd January 2013, 07:00

Yes! thank you, I see what I didn't do the first time to get it apart. Heck i thought I went through this whole site looking for that kind of write-up.

Now the left window won't go down but a few inches, then it stops and goes "clunk." I didn't touch the left door frame at all so this is a new problem. Now I MUST access the rollers inside the door panel.

flylow7f39

2nd January 2013, 09:22

Yes! thank you, I see what I didn't do the first time to get it apart. Heck i thought I went through this whole site looking for that kind of write-up.

Now the left window won't go down but a few inches, then it stops and goes "clunk." I didn't touch the left door frame at all so this is a new problem. Now I MUST access the rollers inside the door panel.

Might be a good time to replace rollers (guides)?
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=474989

coffee_brake

4th January 2013, 00:16

I pulled the door panel on the non-working side just to check and the guides looked OK. Pulled the switch apart and it was completely covered in carbon. It seems to be working pretty good now with a good scrubbing.

This surprised me, I thought the rollers were coming apart for sure.

coffee_brake

5th January 2013, 02:41

Unusualdesigner

5th January 2013, 03:42

I'm a believer in keeping cars perfect mechanically but kind of let the aesthetics part slide.... people don't usually mess with cars that look "average".... so, no, I don't have a "cherry" ride :D
Right now mine has been on jackstands since Tuesday, chasing a pesky oil leak. Replaced valve cover gasket and CAS "O" ring today.
We'll see what happens next ;)

I hate oil leaks!

peterpanic

5th January 2013, 07:40

MC70

5th January 2013, 12:30

I believe in making your car look as good as it can and keeping it clean. I also believe in having it mechanically sound; I don't care how good it looks, if it isn't safe to drive it doesn't leave the driveway. I will drive it dirty with no problem.

I'm an aerospace guy who was former USAF and that's just kind of beat into me. Cleanliness keeps corrosion in check and makes it much easier to work on if a mechanical problem arises. The act of cleaning causes you to inspect the vehicle and spot potential problems before they become catastrophic.

With all that said, I'd drive my Miata in whatever condition it was in, and I wouldn't care about what others thought. Go over to clubroadster.net and see how a lot of those look; there are a lot of different genres of Miatas. Those guys usually have a lot of fun at m.net's expense for insisting that no mods be done, or that any mods be purely chrome accessories. In a lot of cases, it's true. However, over there they have a large population of guys slamming (extreme lowering) their cars, massive body modifications, and pretty outrageous wheels, paint, body accessories, etc.

Unusualdesigner

5th January 2013, 12:44

.... I don't care how good it looks, if it isn't safe to drive it doesn't leave the driveway. I will drive it dirty with no problem.....
I'm an aerospace guy who was former USAF and that's just kind of beat into me. .

Old biker saying: "Chrome won't get you home"... ;)

Do you do a FOD inspection of your driveway? <g,d,ra>

MC70

5th January 2013, 17:08

I do FOD inspect my drive, but for the tire's sake (and to make sure no fasteners have found their way off the car).

For those of you who don't know, FOD stands for 'Foreign Object Debris'. Aircraft are very susceptible to ingesting small debris which can shell out an engine (catastrophic failure) or getting into places that make flight controls or electronics/avionics fail. It is common practice to do FOD Walks which is just a sweep of an area to pick up any debris.

coffee_brake

6th January 2013, 00:52

OK I get it: ride your own ride, right? My bikes aren't any of them very shiny either, but all mechanically sound: brakes first, then electrics, then engine, then suspension. Then cosmetics.
I suppose the approach to the little car will be the same.

I really still don't know what to do, with the car, keep it or give it back with my thanks? I hate automatics and I've been doing just fine without a car for several years now. On the other hand, here is a car I can work on pretty easily, small, agile, easy to park, and oh yeah, I don't owe anything on it, even if it does desperately need new shocks.

Still at a loss for what to do, but time behind the wheel and back in the saddle will fix that.

Peter, I'm healing well, faster now that the worst is over. Still have limited range of motion in my wrist, and weaker all over for my time away from activity, but riding again and no more bandages. Just the last of the bruising finally fading away almost 8 weeks out. Thanks for asking!

prb

6th January 2013, 21:02

My car looks ok from 20 feet if you squint and you are looking into the sun.

It needs new paint and upholstery. The windshield looks like someone sandblasted it. It runs fantastic. I smile.

Dennis Nicholls

6th January 2013, 21:13

The white paint on the 1.6l Miatas was famous for peeling off. The later white used on the 1.8l cars is much more robust. I prefer it since it's the least likely to show faults. The beater Miata is a good "15 foot" car.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7139/7483414650_87405561e1_c.jpg

I'm guessing you would be happier returning the auto to your folks and getting a manual car. Even if you did a manual swap in the 1.6l, the auto engine in the 1.6 is detuned and has many differences from the normal 1.6l engine. At least the 1.8l engine in both manuals and autos is the same.

coffee_brake

8th January 2013, 09:40

JAD007

12th January 2013, 10:47

coffee_brake

20th January 2013, 13:32

I have ridden the car a lot and still want a stick!

I spoke with my folks at length last night. I explained why I like the Miata and that I wanted to give it back to them because I don't want to mooch off my parents. I'm 38, married, own my home and live debt-free. I don't need charity.

They insisted they wanted me to have the car and said I could sell it!

I asked them if they would be OK with me cleaning it up and trading for a stick, they're OK with that!

Anybody in the Southeast want an automatic Miata in good mechanical shape? Trade ya for a similar year stick....

Bill Strohm

20th January 2013, 13:58

coffee_brake,

You might have some luck here (http://forum.miata.net/vb/forumdisplay.php?f=123).

coffee_brake

28th February 2013, 08:11

A couple months and a few hundred miles later, I just re-read the entire thread to get more information.

I'm physically nearly back to 100%, full range of motion everywhere and just a little bit of battered elbow still healing. Knees are good and wrist works normally again, back in the gym regularly to rebuild strength and take off the pounds I put on sitting around and gimping over the holidays.

I usually take the Miata out once a week and make a point of getting groceries and fetching/carrying that day. It's a lot cleaner now than when I got it.

I even bought some floor mats for it. I'd still like to get the same model in a standard shift, but right now I'm pretty happy just having wheels when it rains. The bike I crashed is back on the road, ugly as sin but running fine.

Just wanted to express appreciation for all the information posted and let everyone know that it's very useful, still. I'm pricing shocks, belts, and a cab cover, now that I know I can do the work.

The car being so old, I've been taking it very easy. But the other day I figured since I was close to home I would floor it from a stop on a safe road, better to know if something would fail at all. I've never had the back end break loose on dry pavement. It was, um, way too much fun. Certainly wasn't expecting it to have that much power, being the smallest engine with the de-tuned AT.

Anyway, thanks again...

ap41563

1st March 2013, 00:05

skelaw

1st March 2013, 01:09

From the looks of it, you are right across the Savannah from me! Glad to see you love the car, and welcome to the addiction! There is a miata club in Columbia, SC and I believe in Martinez, but I have not been to either. If you ever need help selling or when the time comes, buying a Miata, I'd have no problem giving you a hand. If you need any help with repairs, again, I'm right across the river.

Welcome aboard! :thumbs:

coffee_brake

1st March 2013, 01:33

Wow, thanks a lot, Skelaw! The Masters Miata group here in Augusta is a fine bunch of folks, but with the Motorcycle Rider Coach program I'm completing, I haven't had much opportunity to hang out. But that's over in a few weeks and I'll have more time then.

And Ap, Peter Egan is one of my favorites. His favorites are a little older than my own, but we both seem to like machines from the early years of our driver's licenses, or a bit before.

prb

1st March 2013, 08:45

Glad to hear you are healing up nicely! Welcome back.

Car running ok?

SleekBlackBeauty

1st March 2013, 12:53

coffee_brake

1st March 2013, 15:05

no rotors

2nd March 2013, 11:56

Still want a stick! But I'm not unhappy driving the AT. It smokes on start up a little more than I'd like. I wonder if it needs a valve adjust.

No - That wouldn't play into oil burning.
Valve seals, however, are a possibility, as are worn valve guides. :thumbs:

coffee_brake

3rd March 2013, 13:05

[/I][/B]

No - That wouldn't play into oil burning.
Valve seals, however, are a possibility, as are worn valve guides. :thumbs:

Time to search the forums....:)

jadevol

3rd March 2013, 14:17