Editor's note: For generations, recipes served as the ultimate heirlooms in Black families — kitchens marking one of the few spaces descendants of Africa practiced and celebrated cultural identity without retribution. During a period when belongings and property might have been limited, these families passed down culinary know-how with ingredients modified by their American surroundings. It's why these recipes are so sacred to so many. To celebrate this kinship, Southern Kitchen is showcasing 29 recipes during the 29 days of Black History Month 2024.
The menu
- Feb. 1: Sides and breads.
- Feb. 8: The cookout.
- Feb. 15: Holiday feasts.
- Feb. 22: Sweets and treats.
Collard greens
Perfecting collard greens is a milestone in Black culture, a sign that your kitchen skills have arrived. This steaming side is a connection to heritage, a taste of the rich tapestry that defines culinary artistry. In the rhythm of a simmering pot, vibrant green leaves transform into a symphony of flavors. Born from ancestral kitchens, infused with bacon, ham hocks or a succulent turkey leg, the secret lies in the simmer. Originating near Greece, collard greens made their mark in America when enslaved Africans brought them to Jamestown, Virginia, in the early 1600s. This spin on the traditional recipe gives it a kick with a bit of red pepper. — Angela Dennis
Cornbread
With respect to any cornbread supplier, there's a reason why this healthy attempt at the most popular side-cake trumps anything out of a box. Most versions are savory; a few are sweet; and others are married with sweet milk to create a beloved Southern snack. In a recipe void of granulated sugar or products from any animal, this vegan side item combines a core of cornmeal, whole oat milk and melted avocado butter to make this complimentary food the star of any plate or bowl. Move over, mac and cheese. This homemade cornbread is now the captain.— A.J. Jackson
Biscuits
In her quest to learn more about biscuits and the Black Southern women whose history is intertwined, Bomb Biscuit Co. owner and author Erika Council often discovered underrepresented voices. So she resurrected their spirits with her recently published biscuit book, "Still We Rise." Council was recently nominated for a James Beard Award for Best Chef Southeast, even though she never really considered herself a chef. She draws inspiration instead from church ladies, grandmothers and other women who would have been household names were they white, culinary giants such as Lena Richards. Regardless, Council seems well on the way to becoming a household name with recipes such as these angel biscuits. — Mackensy Lunsford
Green beans
Michael Twitty's book, "Koshersoul," tells the story of the Jewish and African diasporas and the cultural melding those forced journeys created. Seasonally, green beans are a welcome addition to the table as a side dish. Classic approaches can be prepared with smoked meat or potatoes, while other interpretations flavor stews such as fassoulia, a Sephardic dish (at the link below) where meat, onions and green beans make a meal. — Mackensy Lunsford
Hush puppies, barbecue meatballs and Vidalia onion dip
Danni Rose’s new cookbook, "Danni's Juke Joint Comfort Food,"pays homage to juke joints — spaces created by Black people for Black people. Spaces where they could be themselves, feel safe and be nourished. Comfort food, Rose said, fostered a sense of belonging in those spaces. Not surprising: In the Birmingham, Alabama, home where Rose grew up, there was always something on the counter to welcome guests — from pound cake to sardines and Ritz crackers. French onion dip? That's enough to make a hungry visitor swoon. But all you really need to make guests feel welcome is offer something homemade. "It's really about the gathering and conversing," she said, "and the food is just the bonus."— Mackensy Lunsford
Grits
No dish divides the nation more than grits. Southerners consider it an indispensable staple; so much so that an elevated and more expensive version with shrimp, cheese, etc. is available all day at restaurants. While Americans from other regions don't know any better, showing disdain for ground corn, the classic dish, served simply with salt, pepper and butter, anchors millons of mornings — served with eggs and your choice of bacon and/or sausage. Now, if you want to debate: Sugar or nah? — Todd Price
Jollof rice
Rice is everything, chef Serigne Mbaye said about growing up in Senegal. Everyone ate it, every day. In Senegal and across West Africa, brick-red jollof rice, named for the Jollof people, is a staple. Mbaye now lives in New Orleans, where he owns Dakar NOLA, a modern Senegalese restaurant. When he moved to the South, he discovered dishes that reminded him of jollof. Hoppin’ John. Jambalaya. Lowcountry red rice. But the past few years, he’s watched African food make inroads in the South and seen more menus with jollof. — Todd Price
